Description

Camden State Park has an incredible variety of climbing grades and types. The drive is an hour an a half from ÀÖ²¥´«Ã½ to a dirt parking lot that usually isn’t full. The Lost Valley crag at Camden offers 16 sport climbs that range from 5.7 to 5.12d. The approach can be a little tricky and long, but most of the time you’ll have the crag all to yourself. The views from the top of the cliff are spectacular and the wall gets plenty of sunshine.

If you’re looking for trad climbing, the Guide’s Wall has plenty of short climbs that range in grade from 5.4 to 5.9+. This cliff is southeast facing and has a mostly flat mile long approach :).

There is also plentiful ice climbing at Camden State Park!

Trailhead Location:

Maiden Cliff Trailhead, 321-415 Turnpike Dr, Camden, ME 04843

44°14’50.3″N 69°05’15.0″W

Description

Shagg Crag has one of the highest concentrations of excellent quality hard sport climbing routes in the entire New England area. The cliff itself hangs off the side of Bald Mountain overlooking Shagg Pond. The approach is fairly burly compared to typical sport crags and involves hiking for about 10 minutes on flat terrain followed by 15 minutes of uphill hiking. Most of the classics have perma-draws which makes projecting and backing off of routes very easy and low stakes. In addition, the main section of the cliff stays dry in almost anything (the classic “Ginseng Route” (12c) has been climbing in a hurricane). As you approach the base of the cliff, you’ll notice a large crack traversing the cliff face, which marks a 5 bolt 10c “warmup” route called The Great Escape. The mountain project page for the area is very well established and has almost all the routes at the crag on it. Although its home to almost exclusively hard sport routes, it’s worth going to if you’re new to sport climbing. Go with someone who knows the area and can lead some harder stuff.

Callum Douglass ’16 on the deadpoint below the upper crux of Shaggadelic (13c)

Directions

The trail head appears shortly after passing Shagg Pond on the right. Drive up a steep hill and park at the pullout on the left as soon as you reach the top of the. The trailhead is immediately across from the pullout. Follow the trail until it reaches Little Concord Pond (See link in additional notes below). Immediately before the small clearing that leads down to the lake, take a right. There should be a green sign which points up a steep rocky ramp visible immediately. Follow the trail that leads up this ramp, and follow it for 15ish minutes. When you are slightly below the Bald Mountain summit, you’ll be able to see a faint trail heading off to the right towards a cliff which may or may not be visible through the trees depending on the season. If you reach a sign directing you to the Bald Mountain summit, you’ve gone about 500 ft too far (Although the summit is well worth the extra 2 minute hike). Once on the climbers path, follow it down to the cliff.

Trailhead Location:

272 Shagg Pond Rd. Bryant Pond, ME 04219

44.427222°N,  70.542033 °W

Additional Notes

The birds perch ledge is home to a peregrine falcon nest. Make sure to steer clear of this area in the spring and summer while the birds are nesting. ÀÖ²¥´«Ã½ alum Callum Dougllas ’16 has the first ascent of Shaggadelic. Good luck repeating it!

See also: Bald Mountain;ÌýÌýLittle Concord Pond