Description

Camden State Park has an incredible variety of climbing grades and types. The drive is an hour an a half from ÀÖ²¥´«Ã½ to a dirt parking lot that usually isn’t full. The Lost Valley crag at Camden offers 16 sport climbs that range from 5.7 to 5.12d. The approach can be a little tricky and long, but most of the time you’ll have the crag all to yourself. The views from the top of the cliff are spectacular and the wall gets plenty of sunshine.

If you’re looking for trad climbing, the Guide’s Wall has plenty of short climbs that range in grade from 5.4 to 5.9+. This cliff is southeast facing and has a mostly flat mile long approach :).

There is also plentiful ice climbing at Camden State Park!

Trailhead Location:

Maiden Cliff Trailhead, 321-415 Turnpike Dr, Camden, ME 04843

44°14’50.3″N 69°05’15.0″W

Description

The amphitheater is an excellent ice climbing spot located in Grafton Notch. It has a relatively short approach, is rarely crowded, and is easily top roped. The and the approach also offer some incredible views out into the notch. Because of its location, it tends to hold ice even during warm winters.

Koby Yudkin at the Amphitheater in Grafton Notch

Directions

Drive past the parking for the trailhead up Old Speck for about half a mile. On your left you’ll see a pullout with a sign marked cable road. Park here and follow the cable road straight for about 100 feet, then turn off left into a marshy area. There are blazes leading to the cliff but it can be tricky to find if the trail isn’t packed down (I’ve added a second point on the map above with the approx. location of the cliff). Head uphill steadily until you reach a cliff. If you hit a clearing ~ half way you should be on the right track. Once at the cliff, walk around climbers right and set up some top ropes or lead something to the top.

Trailhead Location:

Off of ME-26 in Newry, ME 04261

44.5984°N, 70.9463°W